Legacy

Copyright information: Designed and created by ©️Mel Harrison. Please do not sell or redistribute this pattern. All rights reserved. 

Legacy

When you think of the media representation of grandmother’s we are bombarded with images of little, old, frail white haired ladies with small grand babies on their knee. 

I on the other hand was bless with young Nannas, I was lucky enough to have my paternal grandmother until my 30’s and my maternal grandmother until my mid 40’s. They were both remarkably talented crafts women. My dads mum crocheted, knit, embroidered and was an extremely talented seamstress. My mums mother, well let’s say if it could be crafted she crafted it but it was her crochet where she shone the brightest.

I grew up, while my parents worked hard, sitting at the foot of these grandmothers watching them in awe as they waved their magic sticks around and came up with a jumper or a blanket for the newest baby in the family. 

It is because of them I am inspired to create, it is because of my grandmothers I am who I am today. I am proud to continue their Legacy.

The design:

Legacy features vintage inspired panels of graduated open fan stitch inspired by the beautiful lacework my grandmother used to make. Legacy can be made as a doily/small table topper or mounted on a hoop to hang on the wall. It is an easy level pattern that requires a little concentration on the first rounds.

If you would like to purchase a downloadable PDF, that includes round by round photos, you can via: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/legacy-6

Materials needed:

Legacy was designed using Scheepjes Legacy Nø12 (2 ply/lace weight equiv.) Meterage used was 670 m. I used a 2 mm hook. It measures 62 cm.

Legacy can be made in any yarn weight. Meterage will vary based on yarn used, hook size and crochet style.

Stitch markers.

Wool/darning needle.

Gauge for Scheepjes Legacy Nø.12: rounds 1-6=10cm

Recommended Hook size:

1.5-2.5mm for 2ply

2.5-3mm for 3ply

3-3.5 mm for 4ply

3.5-4 mm for 8ply

4.5-5.5 mm for 10ply

Or hook appropriate for your chosen yarn weight 

Stitch abbreviations: 

(American Terms)

Pm: Place marker

Dc: Double crochet

Sc: Single Crochet

Ch: chain 

Skp: Skip stitch

Sl st: Slip stitch

Ch-sp: Chain space

Puff st: Puff Stitch 

Stitch tips:

Anything between *..* repeat the amount indicated x..

Anything between {…} is worked into the same stitch. Eg. {dc13} in the next ch2-sp is a fan of 13 dc in the one space. 

Pm: unless otherwise specified the marker is placed in the last ch or st made 

Chain tension: unless otherwise specified you need an even tension on your chains, but not overly tight. If you have a tendency to chain very tightly you may need to add an extra chain to the counts.

Puff stitch: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull up a loop x5 into the same space, yarn over, pull through all 11 loops, then ch1 to close the puff. When you are asked to work into the top of the puff, it refers to working into the ch1 

If you find the 5 wrap puff is too hard to fit in the space you can do a 3 wrap puff.

Backward slip st: turn your work, sl st into the space between the first and the last st of the last round, turn your work and continue instructions 

Pattern

Please read the stitch abbreviations and stitch tips before continuing.

Ch8, sl st the first ch to the last to form a ring

Round 1: ch1, (not counted as a st), working into the ring,  *puff st 1, ch1* x8, sl st to the first puff (8)

Round 2: sl st to the first ch1-sp, {ch5, pm in 3rd ch, dc1} in the first ch1-sp, skp1, *{dc1, ch2, dc1} in the next ch1-sp, skp1* x7, sl st to the ch with the marker (16) 

Round 3: sl st to the first ch2-sp, {ch3, pm, dc6} in the first ch2-sp, skp2, *{dc7} in the first ch2-sp, skp2* x7, sl st to the ch with the marker (56) 

Round 4: backward sl st into the space between the first and the last st of round 3, ch1 (not counted as a st) puff st 1, *ch7, skp7, puff st 1 in the space before the next st* x7, ch7, skp7, sl st to the first puff (8 puffs) 

Round 5: {ch3, pm, dc1 ch2, dc2} in the top of the first puff, *ch3, sc1 around the ch7-sp and into the 4th dc of the fan below, ch3, {dc2, ch2, dc2} in the top of the next puff* x7, ch3, sc1 around the ch7-sp and into the 4th dc of the fan below, ch3, sl st to the ch with the marker (40)

Round 6: sl st to the first ch2-sp {ch3, pm, dc1, ch4, dc2} in the first ch2-sp, * ch1, skp to the sc of the round below, {tr1, ch4, tr1} in the centre of the sc, ch1, skp to the next ch2-sp, {dc2, ch4, dc2}* x7, ch1, skp to the sc of the round below, {tr1, ch4, tr1} in the centre of the sc, ch1, skp to the ch3, sl st to the ch with the marker (32) this round will ruffle 

From here on the last repeat of ‘skp to the next ch2-sp’ will bring you to the initial ch3 to sl st into 

Round 7: sl st to the first ch4-sp, {ch3, pm, dc2, ch4, dc3} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp, *{dc3, ch4, dc3} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp* x15, sl st to the ch with the marker (96)

Round 8 : sl st to the first ch4-sp, {ch3, pm, dc3, ch4, dc4} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp, *{dc4, ch4, dc4} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp* x15, sl st to the ch with the marker (128)

Round 9: sl st to the first ch4-sp, {ch3, pm, dc12} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp, *{dc13} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp* x15, sl st to the ch with the marker (208)

Stop here for a small doily

Round 10: backward sl st into the space between the first and the last st of the previous round, {ch5, pm in the 4th ch, tr1, ch4, tr1, ch1, tr1}, skp6, *{dc2, ch4, dc2} in the next st, skp6, {tr1, ch1, tr1, ch4, tr1, ch1, tr1} in the space before the next st, skp6* x15 {dc2, ch4, dc2} in the next st, skp6, sl st to the ch with the marker (128) 

Round 11:  sl st to the first ch4-sp, {ch3, pm, dc1, ch4, dc2} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp, *{dc2, ch4, dc2} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp* x31, sl st to the ch with the marker (128)

Round 12: sl st to the first ch4-sp, {ch3, pm, dc2, ch4, dc3} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp, *{dc3, ch4, dc3} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp* x31, sl st to the ch with the marker (192)

Round 13: repeat round 12

Round 14:  sl st to the first ch4-sp, {ch3, pm, dc3, ch4, dc4} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp, *{dc4, ch4, dc4} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp* x31, sl st to the ch with the marker (256)

Round 15: repeat round 14

Round 16: sl st to the first ch4-sp, {ch3, pm, dc10} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp, *{dc11} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp* x31, sl st to the ch with the marker (352)

Stop here for a medium doily

Round 17: backward sl st into the space between the first and the last st of the previous round, {ch5, pm in the 4th ch, tr1, ch4, tr1, ch1, tr1}, skp5, *{dc2, ch4, dc2} in the next st, skp5, {tr1, ch1, tr1, ch4, tr1, ch1, tr1} in the space before the next st, skp5* x31 {dc2, ch4, dc2} in the next st, skp5, sl st to the ch with the marker (256) this round will ruffle 

Round 18: sl st to the first ch4-sp, {ch3, pm, dc1, ch4, dc2} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp, *{dc2, ch4, dc2} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp* x63, sl st to the ch with the marker (256)

Round 19: repeat round 18

Round 20: repeat round 18

Round 21: repeat round 18

Round 22: sl st to the first ch4-sp, {ch3, pm, dc2, ch4, dc3} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp, *{dc3, ch4, dc3} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp* x63, sl st to the ch with the marker (384)

Round 23: repeat round 22

Round 24: repeat round 22

Round 25: repeat round 22

Round 26: sl st to the first ch4-sp, {ch3, pm, dc3, ch4, dc4} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp, *{dc4, ch4, dc4} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp* x63, sl st to the ch with the marker (512)

Round 27: repeat round 26

Round 28: repeat round 26 (this round curls) 

Round 29: repeat round 26 (this round curls) 

Round 30: sl st to the first ch4-sp, {ch3, pm, dc12} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp, *{dc13} in the ch4-sp, skp to the next ch4-sp* x63, sl st to the ch with the marker (832)

Finish off and sew in your ends. Like all vintage lacework Legacy will love a good pin out blocking to open up all the fans